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Post Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 5:44 pm 
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callyb wrote:
My opinion is to use pva. I waxed the port stringer form (even though I new better LOL) and I wound up having to cut it free. The next time (did I really just say that???) I will use pva.



Thanks for that info, I was going to foam today, but since you said that, I put all on hold and will wait for it to get in.

So is that a slip of a future project in your future, say a 281 center console type stirthepot.gif

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:01 pm 
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Are you out of your mind? I'm thinking about a 240. That other 4 feet would kill me, not to mention my wife. Hell, I never saw her as excited as when the Uniflite left the house....on someone else's trailer! spoop_smileypoophitsthefan_100-1001

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:26 am 
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I saw this at a gas station on 75 yesterday. This I would think would be a prime example of Mr Toads wild ride. Check out the flotation boxes on the transom and the bottom paint on how deep she sits in the water. It took off before I could get more pics. It is an Aquasport I can confirm. The boat also had a mini tower as well.

Image

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:41 am 
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Yesterday, I laid 3 coats of PVA on the stringer forms. Today, after I installed the molds, I got to sCo_hmmthink How come the stringers come delaminated from the hull bottom in these older boats. I can only figure out is how they are tabbed to the hull bottom. I came up with this idea :1947_eating_popcorn: If I was to lay in a layer of 1708, 3-4" up the form side, and 3-5" on the hull bottom, let it dry. When I pour the foam in, it will press up against the glass side at the bottom and the bottom of the foam/stringer will have a wide bond to the hull. This wont take a lot of time, glass or epoxy and I suspect a better product in the long run.

I also wrapped a 3/4 in pvc pipe in clear packaging tape and put it against the hull. The tape won't let epoxy stick to it as works as a great release agent. I wrapped a layer of 1708 over the top of it, then put the inside layer of glass, covering that first layer on the pipe. I wet out the remainder of the glass tape along the stringer form and will let it set up and cure. After approx 1 hr, I removed the pipe and have a water outlet from the outside stringer to the bilge with no obstruction for the water to drain. Later today, if the glass is ready, I plan on pouring the foam and glass on Friday.

Here are some pics.

Image

Image

Image

In the last pic, that is standing water from last nights down pour in the keel.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 12:27 pm 
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That thing is gonna be a friggin' tank!!

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:09 pm 
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that aqua must fly with the 250. i like your idea of the cloth

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:12 pm 
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gran398 wrote:
That thing is gonna be a friggin' tank!!



No Scotty, that will a certain 170 I know of that will be a battle wagon. stirthepot.gif Mine is just being put together so when my kid gets it when I die, she doesn't have to rebuild it again, just put the hover motor on it and drive it :1143_neener_neener_neener:

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 4:20 pm 
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Well, got the stringers poured. sFun_crazydance There was a little bow towards the front in the MDF but that's ok. I plan on putting in bulkheads so no issue. I also found that if you schlack the MDF with 5 coats then spray on 4 layers of MDF there is no sticking issue.

Port side

Image

Forms removed, I couldn't get the little fill piece out so it will get glassed in. :1898_: Starboard foamed as well. Learned about the expansion rate so that made it much easier and less waste.

Oh and for the electric knife using it to cut the foam. Fail sAng_scream epic fail as it could barley cut the foam top and the blades were pinched together. I went and used a 12" sawzall blade which made quick work of the foam.


Image

Here is the finished inside part, need to remove the outside starboard form so I can get to glassing. Had to put the tank in to see how she fits. sFun_crazydance

Image

I now can not use the tank floor as I have it currently built. :1898_: I will cut it up to use the bottom and then lay the sides in then glass it in. I also will be putting in a cut in half 1 1/2" pvc pipe under the floor to give support and for drainage. I plan on now, due to the angle on the sides going bow to stern on that floor to fill the empty area with foam then glass the ends in. This in theory should keep all water out of the foam.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:21 pm 
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one thing you'll want to do is account for the thickness of the glass on the stringers plus the thickness of the glass added to glass in the tank floor. looks tight between the tank and stringers now, you'll want to leave a good bit of room for the tank to expand the first time you fill it up. i forget the percentage that the tank will expand. mine was too tight after glassing the bulkheads in and the top of my tank warped some... something i didnt account for. :1898_:

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:16 pm 
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i agree it does look tight. but srtingers look great. i think the percentage is 10

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:36 pm 
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I figured out that I need a 1/2" on each side, almost 2" front to back, but I do need to do some trimming the stringers at the back 1/4 of the tank however. I have from about 1/4 up towards bow there is 1 1/2" space total and only need 1/2 per side so plenty of room. Thanks for looking out though, I can always use another set of eyes.

No I just need 2% Here is the drawing of my tank
Image

There is already 1 layer of glass on the sides as I put that layer up after the forms went up and prior to foam. The good news is that I have almost 2 " between the tank top and the floor bottom.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:42 pm 
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Kevin...tank the gallery and start using photobucket! :605_thumbs_up:

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 9:31 pm 
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Kevin you killed it glassing on the inside of the form bottoms! All the boys that spent the time tabbing in the old stringer sides will look at what you did and think "that is one crafty mother father"!!! Brilliant man, absolutely brilliant!
Are you going to fillet the bottoms of the stingers or just lay in the 1708 and what's the plan for radiusing the tops?

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 10:26 pm 
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dburr wrote:
Kevin you killed it glassing on the inside of the form bottoms! All the boys that spent the time tabbing in the old stringer sides will look at what you did and think "that is one crafty mother father"!!! Brilliant man, absolutely brilliant!
Are you going to fillet the bottoms of the stingers or just lay in the 1708 and what's the plan for radiusing the tops?


Thank you Dave for the kind words :2403_worshipper: :2403_worshipper:

I will be putting in filler of Cabisol and Epoxy for fillets along the entire bottom. As for the tops, I will be radiusing the tops using the old Stanley sure file to have nice curves. I only need to wash off the pva then put 2 more layers on the starboard side. The port side I did a little experiment with and only went up about 4 inches, so I need to put in 3 layers on that side. The starboard side I went to the top of the mold so I only need 2 on that side. I'm thinking that should be enough glass for the stringers. I want this thing to float when done and not looking for a tank that can crash through a 85' Hatteras sSc_eek

I will be doing 2" poured bulkheads to go with the theme of the original builders and I already have the supplies. As for the center tank bulkheads, I will be using Nidacore as the bottoms (so water can flow under them) then glass the walls for the form, pour the expanding 4lb foam, then cap off once trimmed to fit.

As for the outside bulkheads, I will do the same trick I did on the transom. I inlaid a 3/4" pvc pipe wrapped in package tape. They will be laid parallel and up against the stringers with the forms in place. I will then do as the stringers and glass the inside leaving the tops open for trimming. Once the glass became hard enough to stay in place, I removed the pvc pipe and had a permanent drain channel with no obstructions. I always figured that when you inlay a pipe you have the pipe lip to deal with and that will keep some water in the compartment which leads to mold and other issues. This way all drains to the back, then the bilge, then out the boat.

As for the tops being perfect, they are not. I am figuring the bonding putty for the deck will fill in the imperfections I might have made in the height fore and aft

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 9:37 am 
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Got it! A "might consider" for making the radius on top of the stinger is after you get close with Sure Form is a two side home made sanding block about a foot long, with an inside radius the diameter you want. Use some spray on adhesive to hold the paper, (like 80 to 100 grit ) in place and fair away. I shaped the bottom of a skiff that way starting with a 60 grit pad on an angle grinder (things got out of hand FAST with that) then going to a shureform, then the sanding block. For tight areas I got an old bandsaw blade and broke it into pieces, staggered the teeth in both alignment and direction and tacked them together. Worked great in tight places where the shureform didn't fit... Hacksaw blades work great that way too if a bandsaw isn't in the arsenal..

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