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Post Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:11 pm 
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So I am finally getting started on my project after lots of thinking and stalking. Going to be doing a full restore on the old girl and am a first time rebuilder so I will work slowly and appreciate any and all comments, concerns and complaints!!
Little run down on progress to date.
-Remove console and leaky fuel tanks
-Cut out rear on transom due to large crack running throughout. I suspect this was due to the 150 V6 Yamaha that the PO had on when I purchase the boat.
-Remove 16" from rear floor to inspect stringers for delam and water. No apparent delamination anywhere I can see other that up under the casting deck on the floor. Foam in stringer is bone dry!!
-Removing all trim and rail.
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I'm planning on a closed transom with live well and some jump seats along with storage. I will be putting a tank in the floor along with repurposing the existing in floor live well into trolling motor battery space. My buddy has a fab shop that will make me a bracket for the motor similar to an Armstrong flotation pod. I'm considering removing the center section of floor and running rigging up to the console and beyond. I would cut on top of the two center stringers for a strong reattachment point. Any thoughts??? Also it appears they slobbed on a bunch of peanut butter before setting deck to fill voids and is about 1" thick!!

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 9:48 pm 
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I ran into something this afternoon that I haven't seen in your guy's projects. Looks like a gap between stringer floor and the hull? Almost like someone added a second layer of glass some time ago? Picture shows transom on the left side looking to port.
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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:20 pm 
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It is part of the mold from the stringers. I gut mine out. Not trying to give you some bad news, just want to help you out, since you are doing that much work, you might want to remove the entire deck. It will be much easier in the long run since you are putting the tank below.

There will be stringer down the middle that will need to be removed. These hulls came with 5 stringers and there is a bulk head of the indeck livewell. I would bet in the middle of the hull there is cracked stringers and some delamination. In the last picture, it looks like water on the lower left heading under that cut. When you lifted her, did she feel heavy? That will be the first sign that there is water in them.

Check under the casting deck. There should be plywood that goes over the foam. It will be behind the side compartments. Remove them and look behind. If the wood is there, it will probably be soaked. If not then you got a great break.

When I gutted mine, I had almost a 1/4" of water in the stringers. She held almost 2,000lbs worth of wet foam and such. 1/2 way on the trailer, it pushed it down in the spring stops and there was still 11 foot of boat on blocks.

Either way, keep the picks coming, she will be a beauty when you get done. Also for the armstrong type bracket. Nando stated, 30" max. I plan on building one that is 24" and put in a 6" jack plate. It will still be 30" off the back with a platform and will wrap around the jack plate. Just something to think about as well.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:21 pm 
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Hi Andy, welcome aboard!

Your flatback has not been altered, it came this way from the factory. The next model, the 22-2 twelve degree, was made without this second sub-floor.

Your stringers look great, the foam too. Your boat looks super clean too, a benefit of light summer use I guess in the far north. Very cool that a flatback found its way to your neck of the woods. Probably safe to say it is the only one in the state.

Most flatback full rebuilds, they brace the boat transversely across the top of the gunnel to keep the correct shape, and rip out EVERYTHING. Then replace the stringers, deck, transom etc. Also they'll add height to the bilge area at the fore-foot where they will puddle and hold water.

Back in the day, there was no bilge access. The boat was designed self-bailing, so in theory no bilge pump was necessary.

Yours is so clean....you won't need to do much. Just the transom and tie the stringers back in. Best to you and your project, keep us posted!

PS....see Kev has posted, gonna throw this on anyhow and then read his :mrgreen:

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:55 pm 
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PSS,

Forgot you didn't have an in-deck tank. Follow The Commodore's advice :2403_worshipper:

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:09 pm 
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Ok, there is a bit of water in the very bottom of the foam in the stringers, not sure on the weight since it's still sitting on the trailer but doesn't appear to squat the tandem axles much. If I decide to remove the entire deck, do you leave the wall liner in place or remove? Can a guy leave it in place and glass back onto it? The casting deck plywood looks dry but has been sitting in my garage all winter. I'm planning on removing the wings on the casting deck for more floor space so I can investigate further. What do you guys recommend to cut the floor up with? Sawzall? Also can a I reuse the floor? It's still very solid. I'm not trying to skimp on the rebuild, just trying to avoid a 5 year 9 month project. And if so, should I go back to an above deck tank. Looking under the deck with an inspection camera, I can't see any delam.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:58 pm 
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Since you have the rear of your deck cut out, you can see the stringer placement. Cut inbetween the stringers and remove those sections. As for the liner, you can use one of those oscillating saws and cut right above the joint where the sole meets the side. That bump out is hollow. This way when you put your new sole down you can tab into that for finish work. Or cut above that bump out, take the sole to the hull side and then tab the liner to the floor for a finish look with less fairing. As for reusing the floor, forget about it. Use honeycomb and just glass 2 layer on the bottom and 2 on the top. 1600db or 1708 works great as well.

If you stringers are good, cut the tops off, get a lineman shovel, and remove the foam. Let it dry out. Brace the sides of the stringers and fill with 4lb foam. Cut level and cap them (running the glass to the hull area between the stringers to seal them up and preventing possible delamination issues in the future) with 2 layers of glass. Install the bulkheads fore and aft of the belly tank. Make that area in front of the fuel tank for the 3 group 31 agm batteries for the trolling motor. Either reuse the original casting deck or build a new one that is better for you. Run your wire/steering chases and fuel (fill, vent, and feed) lines where you want them. Install your high speed pick up and bilge pumps with thru hulls.

I would recommend a flat faced console and put a good (Yeti or such as an example) cooler in front for a seat. This will double as a shore cooler that you can take with you and have double purpose.


If you do it that way it won't be as much and will require the same amount of work you need to do anyways.

Also my trailer was a 3500lb single axle. The boat was originally on a 10000 twin axle Floaton and you could tell she was a heavy woman.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:15 pm 
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Welcome to the club. looks like these guys nailed everything to get you started.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:30 pm 
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Alrighty. Deck off it is. See how much convincing that took lol? If I enclose the transom 24" forward and put live well/ storage back there and tab it into the deck with drains going back from there, do you see any reason to raise the deck height?
I plan on trying to maintain the integrity of the double hull with a watertight deck hatch for the bilge under the transom with 2 bilge pumps. As for the deck build, lay everything up and vacuum laminate with epoxy resin on the garage floor? Or just lay it up traditional style?
I already have a console but will be chopping it to narrow it for a t-top. It does have a seating area up front which I will turn into a small baitwell for a drop in bucket style and maintain seating for those who like to sit. A Yeti?? I'm a poor self employed landscaper, do you think a styrofoam cooler will work just as well??
I think I will do a deep hatch in the casting deck floor to hold 6 bumpers upright.

Lots of goodies planned! This will be a Walleye (gasp) boat primarily for Lake Sakawagea here in Williston, but have lots of family by the Great Lakes so it will see some use there as well.
Debating on either the 9.9 or 15hp Mercury Prokicker? Mainly trolling 1-3 mph but also a limper motor in case of problems. Any recommendations?
Sorry for the scatter brain thinking!

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:44 pm 
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Nothing wrong with that. Just lay it up on the floor. Just do a typical layup. No need to vacuum the thing. 2 bilges are great. If you got the stuff already then use what you got. Saves money. As for the 24" cap, just remember the top will be wider than the bottom due to the angle of the transom from top of call to hull. No issue with the transom livewell. Great place to put it. I personally would raise it 2" minimum. Just use melamine for your stringer braces, take good measurements prior to cutting out. Raise it 2 inches up (remember to wax the form) pour the foam, remove form, glass and stick the deck down. Your plan sounds solid.

As for kicker, get one that runs on the same fuel you have on board. Just run another fuel line to that motor as well. Don't worry about the Walleye fish, hell fishing is fishing, doesn't matter what type as long as it's fishing.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:49 pm 
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I will keep you guys posted! Thanks for all the help already!!

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:13 pm 
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Here is the link to the square tubing I told you about

http://www.theaquasportboatclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1651

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:47 pm 
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Commodore, what do you think of using the 3lb panelized sheets for stringers? Have seen a couple builds that way on Classic Aquasport. They look kinda wimpy compared to what's in the boat now. What am I using the fiberglass tubing for?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:36 pm 
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You are at the right place for your build. All of us were members there but got tired of Little Napolean, rules and regs...but no fun allowed. Here we have a club, a man cave of sorts....great place to hang with the boys.

We welcome you here, and thanks again for joining us. PM me your address, will send you our ABC club stickers.

Yes, plan on raising your deck height a minimum of two inches off factory for self-bailing. Some folks go five inches, but when deck height goes up, freeboard goes down. Aaron, how much did you end up raising yours...3-4?

Also, the forefoot puddling mentioned before....Eugene was big on addressing that on flatbacks.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:44 pm 
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The square tubing Kev mentioned....it will support the new deck, scored and glassed to the hull sides. Same as on Miss D.
It's stout, the builder came up with a great idea there.

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