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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:15 am 
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Andy there are as many different ways to do the build as you imagination will come up with but there are about 3 ways to apply the construction techniques. All is good man and the best time spent is with a sheet of paper and a pencil! Think now about how you want the boat to look in x years and plan your build accordingly.. These hulls are really weight sensitive so think carefully about weight placement when you are adding brackets and kickers. Kevin makes a great point about battery location forward and low. Look at Miss D, she was stripped to the shell, then put back together in a way that made the hull stiffer and quieter. You may not have/want to do that but now is the time to check out that option. The only wrong way to do it is one that is not what you want and full of "well, that's' close enough"s..... Make it right and make it yours! sSig_tablet2

Oh yeah, plan on toe kicks for your console and if you have knees on your cap that double as rod holders fair the new ones in above the deck.. MIne are the original teak and they STILL destroy toes even though I know they are there :doh: sSc_eek ....

Welcome sir and although we may never meet, we are here for you man and will have an great time spending your money, bustin your chops as needed and creating more work for you!! sHa_clap2

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:51 pm 
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Thanks. I figured that's what it was for after some silver bullet pondering lol. Going to try to get her off the trailer tonight and leveled to cut the floor out. Will post some progress soon. Thanks again for chipping in

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:54 pm 
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When you cut the floor out, brace the ring cap side to side in a few spots about 4' apart. The hull will want to bow outwards when the sole is removed due to not holding it in place anymore. This will make your job much easier in the future.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 5:22 pm 
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Commodore, do you think it's safe to leave the boat on the trailer as long as it's leveled and braced? It's a roller style. Or take it off and block it all up on boards?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 5:39 pm 
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If it was me, I would block it. Rollers put pressure in single points along the hull bottom, as opposed to blocking the chines and the keel which spreads the load out releasing pressure and the hull bottom. The chines are also the strongest part of a hull.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 8:50 pm 
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a little note if your thinking of cutting the tops off the stringers, put in 3" rigging tubes inside the stringers. im kicking my self in the ass because i didnt do it when i did my stringers and now i have to figure out how to run rigging tubes.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:57 am 
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Andy, Kevin is correct..

If you have the option to get her off the trailer and onto a cradle do it for a couple of reasons. If you set the cradle up out of an edge set 2x6 frame with the boat sitting on the flats of the 2x6 (think T shape). Guys have used big shaped foam blocks too... Support the the whole thing if you take the stringers out, chines, keel, and hull under the stringer locations. With all the major interior support removed, the hull is gonna flex a bunch as you move around and nothing would suck more then to put an otherwise flat boat back together with a damn hook built in it caused by a set of rollers..sSc_eek ... You can put casters on the cradle too it so you can move in and out of your shop.

If you go off a cliff and strip the boat you will want to grind in as well a ventilated area as you can so you just roll her outside. You will also be climbing in and out about a bazillion times during the project and that equates to a PILE of trips up and down a ladder, or just step over while on a low cradle. For big layup jobs you are better served being out of the boat leaning in at a comfortable angle vice leaving OVER with your head under a gun'll being overcome by resin fumes :_puke2: .. That sir, is a BAD place to be and 'splanes a lot to a lot of people when I say been there, did that.. The effects of the drain bammage are pretty obvious :rolleyes: :1121_wink: ..

Agree completely with supporting the topsides if you pull the cap off, it is a must. Even with the bottom 100% supported the topsides will flex out a bit when the cap comes off. If you go the Miss D route and put sheet foam on the topsides to quiet and stiffen her up the shape better be right once the glue sets or you will have something unexpected to fight. You have an option with a cradle of using exterior ribs and rib bands on the outside of the hull to hold shape instead of cross spalling as Kevin suggests, cross spalls are a good option and way faster to install then exterior support but man your gonna be swinging your legs over them a ton before your done. Just a matter of preference there.. Although with Kevin's way there is the huge bonus of lower cost and material use and you can flip the boat before the interior is all back together, with exterior support, not so much... sCo_hmmthink


All food for though.. :605_thumbs_up: :605_thumbs_up:

Oh yeah, if you already know all this, sorry for being preachy man, I worked last night and it is past my bedtime....

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 2:15 pm 
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Got her off the trailer and supported at the chine and keel. All leveled side to side and front to back. Let the cutting begin!
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Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:01 pm 
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That is nice right there. Leave that ring cap on, do not take it off. I would do the transom before you take the deck off. This will keep the back square and make it much easier to do. Once the transom is done, then and only then do the inside. If I remember correctly, it the deck is cut back about 2 foot from the transom. Remove the stringers in that area. and remove that old soaked wood. Grind it all out to bare glass, put on 2 layers of 1708 mat down. Let harden, install the transom board, fillet the perimeter with epoxy and cabisol, put 4-5 more layers of 1708 with 4-6" overlaps on the sides and bottom and call it done. This way will help with fairing the outside skin of the transom.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:56 pm 
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Well I got the transom all the way out and the stringers cut back. I did take the ring cap off, should have checked the page beforehand. I have not cut the deck off yet. Figured it was safer to get the transom done before removing deck. I took measurements across the hull and wrote them all down for future use as well as installing cross bracing across the top of the hull all the way down. I used the same method that you (Commodore) use for bracing across the top. I did take the cap off first and install all my bracing down the boat before cutting the transom out. Hopefully this does not create an issue.

On a side note, I have read that epoxy doesn't work well with the mat on 1708? Going to order everything in the next couple days so just want to double check. I will go with 3-1 US Composites for the epoxy and not the 2-1 due to the garage being about 65 year round and I am worried about long cure times.
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Post Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:45 pm 
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The epoxy is fine with that. It is with chopped strand mat that it does not go with. This is due to the binders in the CSM as the poly dissolves the binders that hold the mat together.. In biax the mat is woven into it so there is no issue with the binders. The mat in the 1708 helps with the irregular surface, good for bulking and makes for a better contact. I have used 2-1 and 3-1 epoxy from Us Composites. That is where I get my supplies from and they are excellent to deal with and the product is great.

As long as you have the top braced it shouldn't cause an issue. The ring cap just spreads the load out instead of the smaller blocks which cause a wave effect on the hull sides.

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