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Post Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 11:38 am 
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Just have to keep working a long straight pry bar down there. Either that or get some flat stock steel and sharpen one end. Also keep in mind that the bittom of thst small portion of aft deck is probably bonded to the top of the stringers too!

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Post Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 7:07 pm 
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Thanks for the advice Wingtime!!

This was my weapon of choice. Made from a bracket to hold a 1500 watt light we use on our work boat. Straightened out and ground down to a blunt point!
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The end result was this!!!
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Post Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 8:13 pm 
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I hate how people let stuff deteriorate like that... I commend you for taking on such a project though!

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Post Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 9:12 pm 
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THanks BigBoatr! I need all the encouraging words and advice I can get....

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:22 am 
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This come along came in handy as well. Since I don't have access to a forklift at my house. I just attached this to a steel I beam I have in my garage ceiling. I used this to have some lifting force and figure out where I needed to use my homemade spade to loosen the liner from the transom. Also had to use the homemade spade under the floor to loosen it from the glue on the stringer.
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:47 am 
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In your first pic, since you are redoing your deck, I would cut where the hull deck meets the cap next to the tray. Follow it back to the transom, doing the same on the other side. Then cut along the transom deck meeting location and remove that entire part of the deck and cap sides. Once removed, I would use a circular saw set at a depth of 3/4 in and cut from the hull bottom to the transom top making several cuts side to side and top to bottom. This will make it easier to remove the corning in place. Once removed, get a 7" grinder with a 36 grit wheel. Get a Tyvek suit, gloves and GREAT MASK and go at it. If you got a shop vac place it where you are grinding to help with the dust.

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:41 am 
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After i removed the part of the liner that i cut. I took a look at the foam on the outside of the stringers and it was dry as could be. it was hard and not soft to the touch. So that is a positive. Also the stringers sounds rock solid. I will do some more work to it today after church. I will get a 7 grinder from work tomorrow, as all i have here is a 4 1/2 grinder. Hopefully today i will be able to get most of the rotted wood out!
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:44 am 
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Few more pictures from the liner to transom removal.
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:44 am 
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:54 am 
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So a couple of weeks back, before i decided on the transom replacement. I decided to do the deck injection. It felt a little bit more solid upon completion. Well after i cut the liner and part of the floor up for the transom job today. This is what i noticed from the deck injection. Some of the resin was hard but a majority of it was still mushy. Like it never cured. So i am definitely redoing the core of the floor where i tried the deck injection. The floor from here forward still feels real solid. So basically i am replacing the floor from the coffin cover back. In this first picture you can see the length of the knife i am inserting into the floor core.
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Notice that the knife went all the way in on both the port and starboard side.
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Last edited by CaptDuck on Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:02 am 
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So a couple of weeks ago, i was given this box of fiberglass from my work. Does anyone on here know what it is? And could i use it on my transom rebuild?
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:35 pm 
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Time to get down and dirty on this transom!!!
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This is the driest piece of wood that i have seen so far!!!
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Last edited by CaptDuck on Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:36 pm 
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:09 pm 
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Ok, so i am getting towards the end of getting this transom out. But i do have some comments and questions. First of all this transom was in alot worse shape than i thought. When i bought it she sounded very solid. Well it wasn't! as i have been taking out the wood when i go to pull the wood off you can see water in the wood! Also it looks like this transom has been done before. If you look at the picture you can see vertical cut lines. Well that wasn't me! i have been using a cutoff disc and cutting it out in pieces and a crowbar. So with those lines, it leads me to believe it was done before and perhaps it wasn't done very good. Also i wasn't able to get some 36 grit sanding flap wheel. I was able to get some 7 1/2" 24 grit sandpaper and a 7 " pneumatic grinder. Do you think the 24 grit would be to aggressive to clean up the transom?
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I still have to cut down more on the side pieces before i start to grind. But now i have a better understanding how this was attached. I thought the transom needed to fit snug into the sides of the boat?
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And at last how do i get the old wood out from behind here? How much do i need to cut back on this to get it out? And how would i go about re-attaching it to the transom?
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:55 pm 
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Ok sol lots of stuff going on. the fiberglass looks to be overkill but will work. thats what i refer to as an old school method. your gonna go through some resin with that cloth. now days 1708 is sufficient for most jobs. you can get aggressive as you want with the grinding, just try to clean it up instead of taking off material. transom material doesnt need to be snug but get it close as possible. you will need to fill any gaps and run your (skin) glass at least 6" down the hull side. any air voids will result in possible bond issues.

that last little bit of wood is always fun to get out. you can try to pick up a wire wheel for the grinder. the one that has the wires around the outside not the cup type. also if you have access to one at work a handheld belt grinder works pretty good as well.

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