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Post Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 11:18 pm 
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Ceejkay thanks for the advice. On that glass i am not dead set on using it. Just thought i would ask since i have a whole roll of it. I just might go with 1708 and some 3/4 oz CSM. But i will see what the cost is with all the fiberglass and resin vs. just more gallons of resin and using this glass. I will look at harbor freight tomorrow for a 36 grit wheel. and i will pick up a wire wheel for the grinder. I actually didn't think of that. I was using a chisel and thought about an air chisel to get that wood out. I will also price a handheld belt sander (doesn't hurt to add a new tool to my garage)! sFun_crazydance I did get some of it our with an oscillating saw. but still lots left.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:26 pm 
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Great progress!! Any chance you can get your hands on a portable sand blaster? If you are headed to HF, they have small ones relatively cheep and a media like play sand from Lowes/HomeDepot will get after it.. The mess will be fugetaboutit, but it will prep the surface too...

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:06 pm 
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Thanks dburr. But as of these pictures i have about 99% of the old transom out. All that is left is to get the remaining wood left on the back transom skin. Good lord the last of the wood behind the stringers was the worst part. But i took the advice of ceejkay and used a wire wheel. Plus i used some long chisel and just went at it! It was tedious doing it a little piece at a time. But i finally got it all out. Now just to clean up the glass that still has some wood on it and cut of the old lip that was around the wood and grind everything smooth. Then it is time to get all my supplies and get everything ready to start laying up the new transom.
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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:10 pm 
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Well after i got about 99 percent of the wood out. I did notice a few troubled area. Any recommendations on how to fix these before i start put up new transom?
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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 6:20 pm 
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On a side note. I saw about 30 screw holes! this doesn't include the motor mount screw holes either.... yeah she was destined for ROT!!!!

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 10:52 pm 
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Hehehe that skew is pissed at you sFi_wwe !! Nothing a few minutes on a stone won't fix :605_thumbs_up: .. The corners... Grind back some more and then multiple layers of cloth to build up the thickness. Guys are gonna provide different guidance about how big the patch needs to be, good rule of thumb is feather out not LESS then an 8:1 for a given thickness. If the hole your gonna fill is 1/2"deep, grind out from the center at least 4". If you want to go more, go for it :1121_wink: ..

Then the other discussion comes on the layup.. All should agree that there will be multiple layers, the difference is the order they go down. Some will say wedding cake shape upside down (larger over smaller so last layer is contiguous ), others will go the other way. I vote right side up wedding cake so there are not resin pockets in the layup but I may be a lone voice sSc_hiding2 , it boils down to what are you going to be able to do to clean it up and fair it out....

Now is the time to fix what you find, take the time and don't hide it..

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:18 pm 
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Thanks for the advice dburr! Now from what I have been reading this should be done with polyester resin correct? Or epoxy?

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:20 pm 
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No that skew is toast. Broke off about 5 inches of it and the handle is broken!!! But it did the job....

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 12:27 am 
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I do all my rebuilds in epoxy as does Dirtwheels. With epoxy, you don't have to worry about secondary bonding issues. Here is what it looks like should you not prep correctly to use poly.

Image

Also if you use epoxy don't use mat. The binders in it aren't dissolved by epoxy, and it is a waste of resin. Also 1708 had mat sewn on the back so no binder issues.

As for that transon, go at it with a 7" 36 grit wheel using resin disks. Get them at Harbor Freight if you have one close by. As for the edges, I use a small air grinder with 50grit disks for the small touch up. I tried the belt sander, not worth the aggravation in my opinion. Get the corners the best you can, but they don't have to be perfect.

You will be putting peanut butter all around your core anyways which will take up the empty space. So a little imperfection wont hurt. Last when you put in your core, you will be putting in 4 layers of glass with overlaps around 4" (I like to use the largest on the hull side first, then go smaller as you go for the most surface contact and when you fare, you take the top off and not the main contact patch. If you do it wet on wet, you will have a good chemical bond with all layers.) so you will have plenty of side hull bonding. Don't forget to put a couple of layers on the inside transom skin before you put the core in mat side towards skin. This will replace what you ground out, give you some thickness, and will give you clean glass to bond to.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 9:39 am 
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Cant see any pics :504_shrugging:

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:02 am 
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dirtwheelsfl wrote:
Cant see any pics :504_shrugging:


That's weird I see them. Anybody else not seeing them?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:23 am 
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If you use the site gallery there are issues from time to time. The best spot to put them is a Photobucket account.

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:26 am 
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Ok. I will start to put them on my photobucket account. Thanks for the heads up!

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:51 am 
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Sometimes if you're not logged in the pics show up as a red circle with an "X" in it.

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 6:47 pm 
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Well i picked up my 3/4" coosa board today along with some 1708 and some epoxy resin. Hope to get some more work done tomorrow. I was hoping to have this done in my 4 months off but life has gotten in the way and the weather hasn't exactly been the greatest. 2 more weeks and time for me to go back out to sea to catch some scallops!!!

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