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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 1:55 pm 
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pics working now. looks good. shame the transom is rotten- looks very clean still. I wonder if there was a problem with properly sealing the plate and that's how the water got in.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 9:36 pm 
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Just going with wood. I'm getting a heck of a deal on the transom and this guy guarantees his work for life as long as I don't go drilling holes into the transom. He has an awesome reputation and I have all the faith in the world in him. Who knows how long I'll have this boat but I feel I'll never have to do it again, well taking money out of my pocket anyways.

Here's my $20 motor stand. Don't look like much but solid as a rock.
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Post Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 6:16 am 
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what ever works for an engine stand. i spent 50$ on mine with castors. but i made mine so i can put the powerhead on the front of it. when i get it all put back together it will be a nice spot for a gas tank

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 2:03 pm 
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Looking good. I have always liked those boats.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 3:58 pm 
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I'd say the transom plate was more of a symptom than a cause of the rot.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 6:26 pm 
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Well it appears that only part of the transom was replaced last time. The original design of these boats have the transom in 3 pieces creating a "curved" transom. Looks like the last time it was replaced they just replaced the center piece. Haven't dug into it bought yet to see how they tied it all together but we will find out shortly.

The guy doing it says he's going to use (3) 1/2" layers to create the new transom, with the curve but all in 1 sheet. Not sure of all the details as I don't really know much about glassing but I have all the faith in the guy. Just itching to get it done and back in the water.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:49 pm 
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Well my glass guy has been feeling bad since it's been so hot so I went over to help get it going. Got the skin off and wow the smell. It was bad. Had some dry wood in high places but probably 85% was wet. It would seem someone put a full new transom with the 20" dropped area at some time. Then later someone put a section to build it up to hold the 25" motor.

Image
You can see the rectangle section at the top where they updated the transom to 25". The inner piece of wood was cut exactly to the shape of the dropped section. The the outer piece was cut a bit bigger to overlap the seam.

I suspect it's not the original transom as it was cut about 2" smaller than it needed to be. Then they had some sort of hard rubbery material filling the void from the edge of the wood and the side of the hull. None of the wood had been laminated together and the 2 sheets were put together with crown staples. I'm highly doubt that Wellcraft did that.

Now to the real disturbing findings. On the outside of the stringers where they connect to the transom there were holes cut through the inner skin. So any moisture that came to the stern on the outside of the stringers went right in the transom wood.
Image

Here you can kind of see the hole. This is the starboard side. What really sucks is this also let the moisture to seep into the stringer. But he doesn't think it made its way far into the stringer. Tomorrow he's going to cut a section out of the inner skin and investigate more. And he said it will also give him better access to tie the stringers into the new transom well.

Here's about 1/2 of the nastiness pulled out.
Image

We got all the big stuff out. Tomorrow he's gonna let the rest of the wood residue dry out and hit it with the sander to clean up the skin. Then start putting it all back together. He's going to lay another layer of glass to the inner skin making sure it's sealed up from everything else. He also plans on making some passages from outside of the stringers into the bilge for any water to drain into the bilge instead of the transom.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:34 pm 
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im wondering why he decided to cut the outer skin off instead of cutting it out from the inside

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:38 pm 
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Not sure. He has his ways I guess. Only costing me $450 with a warranty as long as I own the boat so I'm gonna let him have at it. He's got a good reputation as far as quality of work goes, just one of those takes a while to get it done kinda guys.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 4:41 pm 
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thats not a bad price. i have that in material for my transom. but its a little different beast

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:08 pm 
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Been a while since my last update. I waited, waited and waited for the transom to get done. Finally I told the guy I was coming to get my boat and he started back on it. He finished it rather rapidly and I quickly could see why. He told me he would only have to come around the side of the transom about a half inch with the white gel-coat so it wouldn't look too awkward from the side. He ended up sanding 4-5 inches of green paint off then only gel coating about an inch, which I guess gel coating over the green paint would of been a bad idea anyways. This was a cosmetic thing so I wasn't too worried and figured heck, I'll just have to paint the boat now.

He ended up installing knees to give the top of the transom a little more strength. Good idea however visually they are not centered and are crooked. The bottoms of them were not laminated and are bare wood and can't easily be accessed to glass them. Also he apparently drilled holes in the bottom of the outside stringers as drains to the bilge because he believes that's where moisture sat and began the transom rotting process. However he never sealed the stringers back up in the holes so now moisture is guaranteed to get in the stringers.

Among other things the splashwell was butchered up pretty bad to get the knees through it. Then he glasses pieces of 2x4's to the bottom of the splashwell floor to I guess "reinforce" it. (1) it looks like a hack and (2) half the wood isn't laminated at all. While all this may be ok with some people I'm a bit OCD and prefer things to be done halfway decently at least.

One big problem is now the motor won't even bolt on straight. These boats have a "curved" transom from the factory but really it's 3 different angled pieces of transom. When he put the wood in he used 3 layers of 1/2" plywood and basically just curved them. Now the motor mounting surface is not flat horizontally. Also somehow it is bowed vertically too where the motor mounts. 1 of the bolts for some reason has about 1/2" less thread then the other 3. It's impossible to see in the hole but I believe maybe a screw bunched up the CSM when he was laminating the layers and there's now a hollow spot there. Only reason I know that's possible is because before he even did my boat he told me about how careful you must be screwing through wet CSM. Haha go figure.

Another thing to the list is the edges of the stern are now radiused instead of the nice sharp edge it was. I know this can be fixed with peanut butter and all but it's just not what I was expecting. Many people told me when we cut the skin off how much more work we had made for ourselves, well apparently not more for him.

Now I know what you're all saying "get what you pay for" and you're all exactly right. The deal seemed too good to be true and apparently it was. In my defense everyone that has seen the boat is shocked at the quality of work. Along the way I even tried to give the guy more money to take care of me and he wouldn't take it, probably a good thing. I wish I would of done more researched, watched some YouTube videos and took advice from you guys as well as other forums I'm part of and just did it myself.

Unfortunately now for me to fix this properly it will all have to come back apart which is going to be quite the undertaking now that everything is bonded together with fresh fiberglass. It makes me sick to my stomach that something so simple will now be such a project. I've since gotten another project hull and am thinking about parting this hull out and using the new tank, console, t-top and other parts on the new hull. Not sure what to do. I know I can't sell the hull for what I can get in savings by using the parts on the other boat.

But the good news is the Mercury I was getting rebuilt turned out great. He ended up boring it .015 and tuning it up real good. He is anxiously awaiting a performance report this spring, which would of happened already if it weren't for the jacked up transom. But the motor is patiently waiting on the stand to be used and I actually have been in touch with Scott (Gran) about a V-20 Cuddy boat local to him. He has graciously agreed to take a good look at the boat for me and give a rundown on it before I make the 4-5 hour trip to NC. If it comes out a good deal I should be able to slap the Merc on it and run it while I get the other project going. Fingers crossed.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:31 pm 
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This may be the green machine replacement.
Image
It's also a '79 but started life as a cuddy. I bought it for $500. Seemed like a solid foundation however rotten to the core. So my new plan is to build a completely composite "skiff" style center console. No fancy bells and whistles, just a clean, functional fishing coat. Going to close the transom in and put an OB on the back. I've already picked up a Stainless Marine flotation bracket for her. Got a power steering setup just got to get hoses made to length. I plan on filleting and gutting the stringers and using carbon core to fill them. As well as using it for the transom. Then using a composite board for the floor.

It's going to be a lot of work but I just love these hulls and they are just perfect for us here in the Chesapeake. Not too many 20' boats I'd trust to cross the bay but wouldn't hesistate in a V. Weather permitting anyways.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:38 pm 
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Man that really sucks. but what your going to be in that new boat, you could have the original one fixed by a good shop. Yes you will be double paying but you would be on the water sooner and possibly cheaper.

if you do the work yourself on that new one you can budget build it. just to break it down a little, if you go all wood and polyester resin. transom your looking at 200$ in wood and 20-30 yards of 1708. I get my 1708 pretty cheap and its 220$ for a 42 yard roll. then your going to need 5 sheets of 3/4 ply for the deck and about 30-35 yards of 1708 for the glass. dont forget resin at 120-140$ for 5 gallons. Right there you are over 1000$. thats not counting stringers if they need to be done. Then add finishing work at about 40$ a gallon for fairing, 50$ a gallon for gelcoat. that could easily add up to about 500-1000$. Small console 200-300$. Realistically your going to be into this thing no less than 2000$ if you do the work yourself. you can almost double that if you go epoxy. im not discouraging you by anymeans, but giving you both sides of the coin.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:23 pm 
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ceejkay wrote:
Man that really sucks. but what your going to be in that new boat, you could have the original one fixed by a good shop. Yes you will be double paying but you would be on the water sooner and possibly cheaper.

if you do the work yourself on that new one you can budget build it. just to break it down a little, if you go all wood and polyester resin. transom your looking at 200$ in wood and 20-30 yards of 1708. I get my 1708 pretty cheap and its 220$ for a 42 yard roll. then your going to need 5 sheets of 3/4 ply for the deck and about 30-35 yards of 1708 for the glass. dont forget resin at 120-140$ for 5 gallons. Right there you are over 1000$. thats not counting stringers if they need to be done. Then add finishing work at about 40$ a gallon for fairing, 50$ a gallon for gelcoat. that could easily add up to about 500-1000$. Small console 200-300$. Realistically your going to be into this thing no less than 2000$ if you do the work yourself. you can almost double that if you go epoxy. im not discouraging you by anymeans, but giving you both sides of the coin.


I understand it's going to be expensive. One thing I don't like about the geeen boat is it's an inner liner boat. When we pulled the rod boxes there was a lot of water sitting on here top of the foam from getting in through the rod holders etc. I can't imagine that's the only place it is. I've never liked boats like this. My first V-20 had a solid floor and sides, much like a skiff. That's how I want to build another boat. I plan on taking at least a year or more to build it so I don't cut corners. And having another boat in the water to use will help me not cut corners to save time. If I do it all myself and still spend $20G on the boat and power I'll still be in it less than a new boat, and I know what I have. I have a local here that spent 2 years redoing one exactly like I want and he has zero regrets.

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Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:36 pm 
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But then again there is this big guy...
Image

Figured that'd catch you guys attention lil more than a V-20. Buddy of mine just acquired it in a trade and already tried to unload it on me. It's a 350 IB/OB and it appears the manifolds, risers and bellows need replaced. Says it runs well though. Haven't checked for solidness. I can probably get it for about $800 trailer and all. Been debating it I just really need another V in my life. Kinda addicted to them.

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