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Post Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Hello Club. I have a 98' 175 with a 90SPL Evinrude on her. Its my first boat, had it for about 3yrs, and I absolutely love it!!! Anyways, I was looking around under the aft, starboard hatch (where the wires run from motor to console) and saw one of the wires had the tell-tale green buildup occuring on it (Purple wire, which according to Evinrude is my Ignition wire). Anyways, I cut out the corroded section and spliced it back together with a heat shrink crimp connector.

Now the obsession is starting to kick in and I am considering a complete re-wire, especially since none of my guages work anyways (except for the volt meter and the trim gauge). I'm mechanilcally inclined, but my only electrical experience is rebuilding a Golf Cart with lots of bells and whistles (lights, horn, turn signals, radio, ground effects, 12V converter, etc..... )

So, ball park range, if I wanted to just let a professional do this, does anyone know approximately the cost? (just curious, I'm still wanting to do this myself for the challenge/knowledge)

Or, can anyone recommend any reference material (other than this forum) to prevent me from making mistakes when it comes to Marine Wiring/Electronics?

At first glance it seems the biggest PIA is going to be getting my 6'3" 250+lb big @ss all contorted to work under the console..... :1121_wink:

I appreciate any help/responses.

- Ken

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Ken, our fearless leader asked me to reply to your post, I'm more involved in our FB group, so not around here much anymore.

I do boat re-wires and installations for a living, was in the OEM business for almost 20 years. Your '98 175 Osprey I most likely saw being built, as the 175/200 Osprey line was 2 lines over from mine (225/250 Ospreys) at WC/AS.

Now that I'm done with introductions, here's what I charge for a complete re-wire. Basically $1000 plus materials, which typically come in at $300-400. Every wire related to the boat (not the engine, we'll come back to that) gets yanked out and replaced with tinned marine wire. Switch/breaker panel gets re-wired using all heat-shrink adhsive lined terminals, the gauges get all new wiring, in short, from a boat aspect, an entirely new AND better electrical system...and it's done my way.

Regarding your issue with the OMC engine harness and the purple wire (ign power) is not a common issue. Engine manufacturers have their harnesses built to FAR better standards than boat builders. Whether its OMC/BRP, Yam, Merc, Honda, Zuke, their harnesses almost never go bad, as I've only replaced 2 harnesses (1 Merc, 1 Yam) in all the boats I've re-wired, both due to severe PO neglect. That being said, the corrosion evident in the purple wire does not stop there. Chances are, if you cut ANY wire in your engine harness and strip it back, you'll see most likely black strands. If, however, you were able to get good shiny copper when you cut out the corroded section, then it was most likely a nick in the insulation that allowed moisture to creep in, yet not a long enough time to let the moisture wick it's way through the entire length of wire. If you think the rest of the harness is fine, then don't mess with it. If you feel you want to replace it, you can find them at outfits like Great Lakes Skipper, or on ebay, like this one...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-Johnso ... 2175299967

Now as far as getting in the console...well, you don't have to. The console on a 175 is lagged into the floor, not t/bolted. Simply remove all the lag screws, tilt the console up and to starboard, and tie off the grab rail to the bow rail. A whole lot easier to do whatever you want in there instead of laying on your back staring and working up over your head. By tilting to starboard, you don't have to disconnect the steering cable (or hyd hoses if you have Seastar) or the shift/throttle cables...

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Joined: Tue May 13, 2014 12:59 pm
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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:53 pm 
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Bob, thank you for taking the time to repsond. I've seen photos of your work, read a lot of your posts, and the pride/passion you put into this subject in general is something you don't see too often anymore. Big shout out for your skill, knowledge and qaulity of work. I was hoping you would chime in because you are probably the only person I would trust wiring my boat.

Here is where my head is:
1. The tach doesn't work. It worked when I got the boat 3yrs ago. Its gone from floating, reading too high, fully pegged, to just not even making sense anymore
2. Fuel gauge doesn't work. I bought it that way. Replaced the sender, and it still doesn't work (pegged to Full)
3. Courtesy Lights don't work. They used to, but one was always dim. Now they just don't work.
4. I had to replace the nav lights due to corrosion at the unit itself.

None of this bothered me because it all seemed related to a bad ground or something and it didn't prevent me and the family from catching fish. The few times I pulled the panel/looked for anything obvious, the wires scared me enough to rather not deal with it.

The corroded ignition wire (I think thats what it was, the purple one in the below pic) is now making me realize it may be time for prevention vs reaction. Since I was thinking of replacing the engine wires (prior to your post), I was thinking of just doing it all while I'm at it. (Its a disease of mine, brake jobs lead to new front suspension...etc.).

I never did find any shiny copper in the ignition wire. To me it looked like it got nicked somehow, and thats where I saw the green. I cut out the green, but truthfully never found bare cooper (I couldn't go too far forward or I'd loose access due to the rigging tube. So it sounds like if I trust my splice, I shouldn't have to worry about the rest of the wires?

Your qoute of $1k plus materials seems more than fair, and making me think it may make more sense to have a professional do it vs me trying to fit in the time (aka, less down time from fishing). To be fair, here is what I would be after, so I am curious what this does to your qoute (excluding new guages, panel, and depth finder):

- Full rewire, according to your standards/best practices/etc. If I left the judgment up to you, would you replace the wires related to the engine, if you felt it necessary?
- Guages working (replace if required)
- New Panel or repaired (current one is faded/cracked)
- Replace transducer/instal new depth finder (while we're at it....;-)

Here is what she looks like currently (she aint pretty, but sure fun to ride!!!)

In the Aft:
593
592

Under the Console:
595
594

Instrument Panel:
591


I asked to join the facebook group, so let me know if you'd rather communicate that way.

Thanks again for your response and time, Bob. It is much appreciated.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:56 pm 
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I was hoping Bob would chime in on this thread.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 9:20 pm 
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i replied to your other thread about the dash panel and mcl. Bob is your man for sure when it comes to wires.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 9:48 pm 
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Ditto, Bob is the man!

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 10:13 pm 
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Ken, thank you for the compliments, I try to do my best. FB messenger is the more convenient means of communication, as it's more or less instantaneous...if you don't mind. We'll chat, OK?


Finished up this little girl today, so obviously still at it. '98 Hewes 20' Bayfisher, general wire cleanup, not a re-wire as the boat wiring was in very good condition. New switches, new Blue Seas 12-gang fuse block w/ground bus, and all hew heat shrink terminals on the panel and the fuse block. New Garmin 74dv, Fusion RA-50, Uniden VHF, Shakespeare 3' squatty body antenna, Lumitec Seablaze mini UW lights, and under gunnel lights.

These flats boats with their "tub" type cockpits really lend themselves to under gunnel lights. PITA to install, but looks really sweet...

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 12:05 am 
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Awesome Bob responded to this. You are in good hands!

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