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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:25 pm 
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Well I scored a set of twin 250 E-tecs today. They are 2005 models with low hours.. as in extremely low hours! The owners purchased them as demo units at the Miami boat show. They had them installed them on their Contender and used them for a total of 10 hours... that's right 10 hours.. before they sold the boat. The buyer had his own motors so they had a mechanic pull them off the boat and wrapped them up them pallets. They placed the pallets in the back of one of their shops... and forgot about them! :504_shrugging:

We went and inspected them today. We used an inspection camera to look in the cylinders and at the reeds.... everything looked good.. You could tell they were almost new when they were put into storage. There were a little dusty, a few spider webs, and some mud dauber nests here and there. The only damage from critters we found was a chewed crank vent hose and a chewed wire. Thats it. Unfortunately there were a few items that went missing during storage such as the air silencers and a few other small things.. nothing you can't buy and the owner adjusted the price accordingly.

We made the trip home and got them unloaded without incident. I wasted no time and squirted some Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders. I then sprayed them down with some WD40 to start the clean up process!

Here is some boat porn for ya!

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:47 pm 
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Sweet find, so one for the 245 and one for the 170 sSc_eek

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 11:13 pm 
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Thanks for your call yesterday. As you know, I have a buyer here. I assume they are CR's and you'll keep the starboard side

Which parts are missing. What is the ask on the other one

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:29 am 
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I have to take time and really look them over. Of course I'm itching to get them running but I have to make sure everything is in proper order first. If I don't I could easily do more damage than good at start up.

I have been on the Etec owners group getting good advice on these motors. These are much more complex than a simple carburetor motor so there is a learning curve involved. I already have a factory service manual on it's way to get me on the right track.

To start the process the first thing I have to do is get one hung on a engine stand. I have to carefully clean and inspect them for any issues or damage that may have occurred during storage. I plan on using an scope to inspect the cylinders and internals. I may even pull the heads just for grins (gaskets are cheap). The fuel system is complex and has to be flushed and cleaned. I don't want any trash to clog an injector. Same thing with the oiling system I have to purge that and make sure everything is getting the vital lubrication. Of course the usual service items are in order, such as spark plugs, filters, water pump kit, gear oil lube and so on.

I plan on building or purchasing a diagnostics cable. Then I have to download a copy of the diagnostics software. With that I can look at engine codes, total hours and so on with a laptop. Even with that there are some things I can not do. I will still have to take it to the dealer for new firmware updates, and even have them run them and do a injector drop out test to make sure they are all in order.

Scott, as to whats missing I have to look them over. So far I found the air silencers are missing (already scored one on Ebay) a little throttle linkage rod, some bolts, plastic wire harness cover, and the starboard motor is missing the flywheel cover. All the parts are available and are not that expensive so it's not a big deal.

As suspected I plan on hanging one on the 245 and selling the other motor. What I will do with the counter rotating motor is the question. I could sell it as is. Or since it is worth more I could sell the lower unit and switch it out with a standard rotation unit. Or another option is sell the pair of motors and look for a 300 for the 245... I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 8:44 am 
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Gotcha, good plan. I'll let him know, thanks Bruce.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:39 pm 
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I think you need to put both on your Bruce stirthepot.gif

Whats an extra 200hp when you need it sFun_eyescan

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 6:35 am 
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[quote="Aquasport Commodore"]I think you need to put both on your Bruce stirthepot.gif

Whats an extra 200hp when you need it sFun_eyescan[/quote


Yea- Like he said... Put em both on the Explorer!

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 10:50 am 
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Spent some time last night working on the Etecs. Using my inspection camera I could see some dirt and even a bug in some of the cylinders. So I pulled some of the heads. Found some good and bad things hiding in there. First the good. The motor with the bug in it looked like this after a quick vacuum and wipe down:

Image

The cylinder head was very clean... as you can see no carbon and the cross hatching is clearly visible. I also pulled the intake and reed valves on the same motor... very clean.. (pics didn't come out) So without a doubt these motors have almost zero time on them.

Now for the bad... the other motor has surface rust on the cylinder walls. not pitted or scale... but enough that it will probably will need to be honed. I'll have to get it on a stand so I can get a look at the bottom end and go from there.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:16 pm 
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wingtime wrote:
Spent some time last night working on the Etecs. Using my inspection camera I could see some dirt and even a bug in some of the cylinders. So I pulled some of the heads. Found some good and bad things hiding in there. First the good. The motor with the bug in it looked like this after a quick vacuum and wipe down: a
Image

The cylinder head was very clean... as you can see no carbon and the cross hatching is clearly visible. I also pulled the intake and reed valves on the same motor... very clean.. (pics didn't come out) So without a doubt these motors have almost zero time on them.

Now for the bad... the other motor has surface rust on the cylinder walls. not pitted or scale... but enough that it will probably will need to be honed. I'll have to get it on a stand so I can get a look at the bottom end and go from there.


Bruce,
Those cylinders are fine, I've seen far worse after sitting for 30 years and light them up. Shoot some 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand to lubricate the cylinder walls. The rings will clean up that stain. Now the main issue may be the upper and lower crankshaft seals but the materials are far better than what I'm used to seeing. I have a '53 Mercury Mark 20 that I found laying in the dirt in barn for decades, rebuilt the mag, carb, new water pump and gear oil, 135 # of compression on each cylinder and lit up and ran perfect after the 3rd pull on the starter. Still runs perfect to this day.Yours is a complex beast for sure and needs a lot more through inspection and dealer help to come alive. I have a parallel situation I'm working on if I can put the deal together on two 2007 etec 115's that are sitting in a warehouse still in the boxes that never have been run. The warehouse owner wants them gone and the engine(s) owner won't respond to calls and texts so I'm ready to pounce on them, maybe for the storage bill if I'm lucky. But I'll face the same concerns you have. I know the water pumps are shot by now and I'll probably sink another $2k in up grades and conversion costs but it's still a roll of the dice.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:15 pm 
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Farley, That is the pics of the good motor... The other one has some pretty good rust fuzz on the cylinder walls. we hit them tonight with some 1000 grit wet sand paper using wd40 and marvel mystery oil in place of water. Stopping to wipe them out frequently with rags soaked with mineral spirits. So far the small amount of time we spent on them yielded promising results!

This is one of the cylinders before cleaning and "wet" sanding:
Image

Here is the same cylinder after cleaning it up some:
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I still have not gotten a look at the bottom end of this motor yet.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 4:43 am 
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That one is a horse of another color, I do see pitting after clean up. You may want to exhume the crankshaft out of that one and check the rod bearings and polish the journals with some 320 crocus cloth. This makes a good point about oil injected engines whether normally aspirated or DFI fed in that they run so lean on oil, 80-100 to 1 at idle, enough to lubricate but not enough to protect in storage without additional fogging oil prior to storage. These engines sitting with the air box and cowlings off didn't help. It's a damn shame. I think as long as you don't try to start them and do the tear down and inspection, it can be saved. You have the time and technical know how to do it correctly, of course, spend the $75 on a BRP service manual for it and have at it. Your photos will come in handy if I get down to negotiating on these 115's I'm looking at.

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:44 am 
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Farley,

I have the FSM on the way... well I actually I did get one.... but the guy sent me the DFI version. Yeah I agreen I have to get a look at the bottom end. I think the clean one is gonna be ok with some oiling etc. Like you said I have to get a look at the bottom end. I'll give you a shout to pick your brain soon.

The Etec does have a self winterization mode that will load the motor up with much more oil.... to bad this guy didn't do that!

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:29 am 
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wingtime wrote:

The Etec does have a self winterization mode that will load the motor up with much more oil.... to bad this guy didn't do that!


Yes they do, Bruce. Something like, with the key on, moving the throttle lever to WOT in the "throttle only" mode...or somthing like that...

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:38 am 
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I think your right Bob. And then it will self shut down.

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Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:37 am 
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So bugged out of work a little early yesterday and went to the shop to work on the Etecs. I pulled the other head on the port motor. Just like the other bank the cylinders looked good. There was some dirt and a bug egg casing but thats about it. I carefully cleaned the cylinders by wiping them down with rags alternating between WD40, Marvel Mystery oil and mineral spirits. They cleaned up nice. Then I lubed them up with two stroke oil.

I inspected the bottom end next. I could see the connecting rod needle bearings were nice and bright with no signs of rust. I inspected them with my inspection camera as well.. everything looked good. So I squirted the bearings and back sides of the cylinders down with two stroke oil.

With all of that done I felt the motor was clean enough and oiled up enough to try and turn it over... I grabbed the flywheel and... she turns! nice and smooth!

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