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Post Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:47 pm 
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ok guys, I put this here because it has absolutly nothing to do with boating. unless you are really into putting a lot of wood back on a boat. :rolleyes: well what I want to know is, can you thin epoxy to where you can put in a small syringe, and squirt it into a very narrow crack sCo_hmmthink . Now why do I need to do this. ha a very good question sAng_scream . you see I made the very very large mistake of joining a wood workers forum sAng_scream . And let me tell you , boating forums have nothing on these guys when it comes snobbish knew it all's sSc_eek . man a few of these guys can make mountains out of a mole hills in a hart beat. I started a thread on restoring a hand plane with a stamped metal frog, and also made the mistake of telling them I was told 40 years ago, it could be a bailey definiace. Then I went on to say how I wasn't sure that's what it was, but that wasn't the reason for the post. But the reason was to explain how this old timer showed me how to make it work really well. sSa_cry4 did I start a fire storm over a dumb name. when the name really had nothing to do with thread. :504_shrugging: so now I have a stanley #135 liberty bell plane which is a cross over plane. Metal parts mixed with a wood body. Which has a crack in the sole. oh I forgot, my second mistake was posting about it. sAng_scream They said when I asked about glueing it with epoxy. take it apart, use the metal parts and throw the body away. sAng_scream They said it wouldn't work. sCo_hmmthink well now I have to do it, just to prove a few over there, that they are wrong. :1143_neener_neener_neener: So what am I doing, turning to a bunch good guys for help and who make me glad I'm on this site. :605_thumbs_up: :shots:

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Regular laminating epoxy is pretty thin, however here are a couple of links to give you some guidance. The first one has a lot of suggestions down the page. Pretty cool ideas and cheap as well.

http://www.instructables.com/answers/How-do-I-thin-out-2-part-epoxy/
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-thin-epoxy-resin

I hope it helps.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:53 pm 
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Thanks kevin that's what I was looking for. I have acatone and DNA. I'll need to get a syringe from either a friend with dieabeties or a drug dealer. Or I could just go up to the beach after this nereaster blows throw and NY's trash washs up.. sSc_eek sFun_eyescan sFun_rofl

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:12 pm 
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You know, we could get the pose together, join that forum, gang up and blast them sAng_soapbox wouldn't be the first time sSc_eek

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:50 am 
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Walt that is COOL, old tools ROCK and I ain't talkin about us sFi_wwe sFi_wwe ..

:_puke2: Obnoxious people that wanna prove how smart and how wrong you are are a waist of oxygen.. :_puke2:

I just made Laura a little side table out of old barn boards and did a bunch of crack fillin with epoxy and it went slicker then grain through a goose once I got it figgered out.... sCo_hmmthink

I had some food safe 2:1 epoxy layin about from another project that I used. It had the constancy of karo syrup so it was a bit thick. Due to the shop bein a tad chilly (it was during that cold snap when it was 5°F out) I had a little heater going on the bench. I put the resin in front of that in a cup and let it heat up until it felt nice and warm and did the same thing to the hardener. I waited to mix them until it was all warmed up.

I had 1 20ml luer lock srynge with the lock collar trimmed off ready to go.. Ask your local smack dealer or the guy behind the counter at the local Walgreens for a few of them and they can set you up. The local first aid boys might trade some of them for good coffee too if you tell them what you are doing. I don't think you want a catheter tip, it'd probably be to big..

Anyway :rolleyes: before you get going, if the crack is through the side of the plane base use a bit of good tape as a dam.. I didn't do that first time and well, there was a mess sSc_help ..... So, mix up your nice warm batch and go at is slow and you will be fine, it will run places you didn't think it will go. Working time my be an issue if your shop is warmer then mine was but for a small crack it oughta go easy. A little at a time and it will dissapear especially if the wood is dry, just shoot some more in Those old plane bodies were wicked tight grained and when you are done, some beeswax man and she will look fine!

Throw it out, what A HOLES sAng_scream !!!!! I'll leave it at that.. Scott'd gimme the business for what else I want to type....

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 1:34 pm 
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Thanks guys I'll be giving them a try. You know what is sad about so many sites. Here everyone is so willing to help and Don't even consider if something some one is asking about, is high end or on the lower end. You guys just help sSig_cool2 . Over there, the ones who are high end only types, seem to control everything. And people who can't afford high end hand tools won't post to much. Their afraid to get put down. I'm trying to help another guy who got on that post, on PM's. Once I Finnish, I think I'm going to drop off that board. The only satisfying thing for me, is I've been able to get some of the guys who haven't been posting for those reasons. To post. Some are opening up and supporting my position. I've gotten a number of PM's over there, asking me to post more. But I really don't feel like fighting with a few stuff shirts. Wood working is just a fun hobby for me. Its not my life. I use both power tools and hand tools. But I will admit, I really like old hand planes and a few other old tools. I learned how to use and set them up, from old wood boat builders from the bay area. We use to have a lot of them. Sadly their fading away. No one is that interested in building wood boats any more. But there are still a few hanging on. And man do I love going to their shops and watching them work and learning how they do things. Those guy are real craftsman. :605_thumbs_up:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 2:01 pm 
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Hey I don't know how many of you guys are interested in old hand tools but here are a few pic's of two plans I have one is a Stanley #35 and the other is the #135 liberty bell I'm trying to fix.

The #135 has the rear tote sit on the wood step. The #35 has metal setting under the rear tote.
Image

Here you can see the liberty bell with the 76 on the cam lock
Image

Here are the cracks I'm trying to repair. I want to glue and clamp to close up those cracks before flating the sole.
Image

Hope I'm not starting something here that isn't suppose to be here, let me know if I am Scott. :mrgreen:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 2:47 pm 
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Walt those are really pretty man for sure!!!! :605_thumbs_up: :605_thumbs_up:

I worry about getting the finish/wax out for a good bond by the throat sides... That said if you want to just fill the checks to keep them from fetching up you'll be fine. I would think a little acetone or maybe alcohol would be better as a cleaner then work your epoxy magic.

The 2 on either side of the throat would be all I would worry about, the scratches on the sole are honorable wounds taken over time..

How you gonna true them up? I have never done that to a wood base before..

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 3:47 pm 
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Dav you got it. Man to me, throwing away the body of this plane is like throwing away the sole (no pun intended) of the plane and the hart of the old craftsman who had it before me. Like the boats we all have. We don't throw them away, we just dress them up and bring them back to their old glory. That's the way I like old tools. Every time I pick one up, it reminds of those old craftsman. I like modern tools as well and I appreciate the guys that turn out great wood works with new tools. But to me the guys like Roy Underhill the wood wright. Just bring out something special. It would be a shame to loss all the old craftsmanship. Like Bob he bring something special to the table every time he added something to this board.

If you look at the pic. On the right side from the back of the throat is the only high spot. I used a parallel, I have a couple of sets from the machine shop. I put one across the bottom and held it up to the light. Then ran it forward. Then turned it 45 degrees to the sides and run it forward again. The area right from the back of the crack runs up hill. Once I fix the cracks, I'll take a wood scraper and slowly work just that area down to where it is flat with the rest of the sole. Then just a few passes over the whole sole on 400 grit paper then a few coats of bees wax and then sharpen the iron. Then she will be dressed for the dance. Just like that cheap old plane I was given 40 years ago. It maybe cheap but once she was tuned and sharpened. She really cut good. The problem is those guys that say they are collectors and educated in the history of hand planes, don't really understand. To be a collector and educated in them you have to appreciate all the old planes not just the high end makers.

Well this did aive me something to talk about, till this weather gets out of here and I can get back to the boat. sFun_crazydance :mrgreen:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:50 pm 
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:605_thumbs_up: :605_thumbs_up:

The scraper is it... I was worried about the different densities of the epoxy and sole if you were gonna lap or sand but with the scraper that ain't gonna be an issue.. You realize you're gonna have to post some pic when your done.... :1143_neener_neener_neener: :1143_neener_neener_neener:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 5:21 pm 
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Will do. :605_thumbs_up: o.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:11 pm 
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I like old tools.

Picked this old gal up a couple months ago :mrgreen: The table moves instead of the arbor. We will see how that works! This ones a '37. The '50 behind it is getting refurbed now...

ImageUntitled by dirtwheelsfl, on Flickr

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Chris man those old saws bring back some memories. I still have two stored away in the garage. I'm not sure of their age. :605_thumbs_up:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:54 pm 
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man those are some awesome old tools. i wish i stayed in one place long enough to aquire some. now its not as old but my scroll saw is a sears roebuck so it has a little age to it.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Well I glued it up today. I put the two parts next to a small heater then when they became thinner, I mixed and injected the epoxy into the crack. When it started to run out all over , I clamped it together. I'm leaving it their till tomorrow. But till then I thought you guys may like this. See the lever on the side. To adjust the iron on the Stanley liberty bell #135. You just move the lever up to push it out down to bring it back. So you can adjust the iron very quickly.

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