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Post Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 8:05 am 
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Well i picked this boat up a couple of weeks ago. And now that i am done with work and off till next March (2017) i would like to start to get her cleaned up and ready for next spring. She needs a lot of TLC!!! First step is to get her cleaned up a little and into my garage. I have order a replacement binnacle as this one was not in proper working condition. None of the courtesy lights worked, stereo is there but no good as well as speakers are toast. The gas tank will be coming out for inspection or replacement if needed. And a soft floor behind the helm seat. And a lots of other odd and ends that need attention
So my first few question are this. Anyone that may have this boat, could you tell me how the wiring for the bow navigation lights wiring is run? I notice that on this one the wire is just speaker wire running thru the starboard side where the rod holders are. Also what size screw are used to hold down the access panel for all the wiring running to the stern of the boat? This one doesn't have any screws holding it down and all screw holes were sealed off. Here are a few pics of what i found when i removed the access panel on the floor.
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This is the speaker wire that i was reffering to that is powering my bow navigation lights. It runs thru the access panel in the floor and then comes out to the rod holders area in the gunnel. Where should the wire be going thru for the bow lights?
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This was actually the tag on the fuel tank. Totally unable to read and full of gunk.
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Post Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 5:53 pm 
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oh yeah thats a project for sure. dont rule out the possibility of having to rip the entire floor out. keep cutting out the floor until you get into good solid dry wood. look at my 222ccp thread in my signature. i went down 1/2" on the circular saw and pulled the top skin off. you should be able to get away with doing that, dig out the old core, put new core in bonding it to the old bottom skin and then bond the old top skin to that.

the screws are more than likely #10 or #12. the screws that hold your fuel tank hatch should be the same size

cant really help you on wiring though.

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:46 pm 
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The wiring thing, all I can recommend is to follow the wire from the switch and see where it goes. You might have to cut a pie hole to work on the items, unless you just remove the bow light, and check for continuity back to the switch. Replace said bow light and call it a day. As for the fuel tank, if you have that issue with the cover, you are going to have issues in the tank area with corrosion. Since those are 30 gal tanks approx, not to much money to replace. Just make sure you get a front fill/vent and back draw so you get full usage of the tank. As for the soft deck, if it's small, injection is good for a short time fix (few years), if there are several spots, look at replacing the deck. Not to hard just time consuming.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:06 am 
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It seems as if i have forgotten about this thread. I have done quite a few things to the boat since my last post. Gas tank has been removed and replaced, Console removed and working on repairing it, coffin cover core was solid. I have buffed up the gelcoat on the hull, replaced all the fuel lines, injected the deck where it was soft. But now only to find out that my transom is in need of replacing. I will post up some pictures later this afternoon. I will be seeking advice and guidance on teh transom repair.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:11 am 
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Typical, the more you do the more you find on these old boat. I just love it. Keeps one's mind sharp (and another reason for drinking adult beverages) You can do it a number of ways. If you do it the same height and don't want to touch the deck, you can do the cut the top off, dig out all the wood, fill with Arjay transom compound and cap back off. Leaves it all in place, Just make sure the bottom inside skin is attached to the hull bottom really good (most aren't as that is how water gets in.)

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:28 am 
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Yeah I understand about the adult beverages and about finding more stuff the more I dig. Now that I have to redo the transom I may as well replace the floor where I did the floor injection. I am thinking either going with marine plywood or coosa. I found marine ply for $97 a sheet and coosa for $213 a sheet. So I am leaning towards the coosa. But as I said I have never done anything like this. So for me I will be a major task. But I have confidence I can do it with help and guidance from everyone on here! I will get some pictures up later of how I plan to cut to get access to the transom from the inside. The top plate of the transom is already cracked from side to side so I will use that as my first cut.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:29 am 
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Also what I noticed is that the wood on the top half of the transom is all rotted out but the lower half is still solid. So water was getting in from the top half where it was cracked!!

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:49 am 
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This is what my transom looks like. I removed the engine yesterday.
473
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 1:03 pm 
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That "crack"is actually the joint where the deck mold overlaps the hull mold.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 1:44 pm 
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Yeah. So would that be a good place to continue with my cutting? Cut a up to the liner top and then cut inside to get the liner portion out. So u can get to the transom.

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 3:37 pm 
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If you plan on keeping it the same height and style/shape, make a template/drawing from the outside before you cut anything. This way it will give you a nice starting point. Is that price for 3/4" or 1 1/2 " thickness on the coosa? Check HERE as the prices is way cheaper for the 1 1/2" 26lb sheet. You could call them and find a distributor in your area. Fletch used it and loves the material.

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1972 22-2 Mod-V (Rebuild status)
1971 22-2 Flatback (Rebuild status)
1971 19-1 (Rebuild status)

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:47 pm 
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Yes a template is the first thing I am doing before even putting a blade near the boat

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:50 pm 
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That was the price for a 3/4" sheet. Think I could get 2 transom cores out of one sheet of 4x8?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 6:46 pm 
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So my plan is to cut the highlighted areas. I would cut back on the rails about a foot. Then go down the liner. And then on the floor i would go back all the way to where the bad wood is.But on the floor i would only want to remove the top skin. So tell me how would i go about doing it like that?

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Post Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:36 pm 
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i used that corelite in my transom as well. really good stuff and 1/2 the price of coosa. its a 25lb density as well

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